Archive for the 'JohnnyVagabond.com' Category


Photo of the Week: Agave Plant in Antigua 0

Travel Photo of the Week: Agave Plant in Antigua

It was my second visit to the ruins of Santo Domingo and I was complaining about the $5 entry fee. I’d returned to Antigua to meet up with my friend Joe who had just flown up from Costa Rica. He wanted to check out the site and I agreed, grumbling behind his back.

I hadn’t ended up with any decent shots on my first visit due to it being mid day and sunny. But this day we were blessed with a partially cloudy sky that made for some dramatic lighting at times and dampened the glare. This is my favorite shot of the day. Well worth the five bucks.

To view image at full size, click HERE.

How to Survive a Suicide Shower 0

How to Survive a Suicide Shower in Guatemala

There are few things more daunting than taking a hot shower in Latin America. Rather than use a large tank-style water heater as we do in the US, the heater here is built into the shower head and usually appears to have been installed by a drunken monkey. But fear not — it is possible to de-stinkify yourself without a shocking surprise.

Although the heaters look like something you’d find for sale late at night on one of those shopping channels, they are a common sight in many parts of the world. In Asia, I found similar setups, but there the heater is a sealed, waterproof unit mounted on the wall and I never really worried about being shocked.

Here, it’s a large electrical time bomb hanging above your head, often with visible bare wires (count yourself lucky if you find electrical tape or wire nuts).

The first step to using a shower like this is to give it a good visual inspection. Is it mounted high enough that you can shower without bumping your head? Are bare wires visible where they could possibly contact water? If it’s just too sketchy, ask the management for a bucket, fill it with hot water and clean off with a washcloth.

Looking closer, you’ll see the ‘temperature selector’ which has three settings: high, medium and off. Don’t touch it. It doesn’t really work anyway and most likely the last tourist left it set at its optimum setting. Or else he died trying.

In fact, it’s best just not to look at the heater from this point on. It really makes things easier. Trust me. Try not to think about it. Keep your head down, do your business and get the hell out of there.

You’ll probably notice a small bulb with holes in it hanging off the side of the shower head — this is a pressure blow-off valve. If for some reason the shower head becomes clogged, this will –theoretically– pop off and allow the water to pour downwards rather than spray up into the wiring. I’ve found that they have a tendency to pop off at random times and scare the hell out of you for no reason.

With no true temperature control, the only way to adjust the temp is to adjust the flow of water through the heater. Turning it on full blast will produce a fairly cold shower. Turning down the volume gives the water more time to heat up on the way through. Turn it down too low and the heater will turn off — it’s a bit of a dance.

Basically, you have the choice of a stiff, cold shower or a warm, drizzly one. Your call.

But wait! There’s one last detail. I often find that the stall has a metal shower knob (if it’s plastic, praise your favorite deity). And since no one seems to believe in grounding their wiring around here, there’s a good chance that the knob will be slightly electrified once the heater comes on. And believe me, there’s nothing like tweaking the water temperature during a shower to make you nnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnever want to do it again.

So here’s my technique: Bring two towels to the shower. While still dry, adjust the water pressure to get a decently warm temperature. Hop in the shower, do your thang and avoid thinking about things like wills, funerals and barbecues. And for God’s sake, don’t touch anything.

When finished, step out, dry yourself off with one towel, and then use the other dry towel to turn off the water. Or wear a thick pair of flip flops.

If any of that is too daunting, just skip the shower. Everyone expects backpackers to be a bit smelly anyway.

How to Survive a Suicide Shower 0

How to Survive a Suicide Shower in Guatemala

There are few things more daunting than taking a hot shower in Latin America. Rather than use a large tank-style water heater as we do in the US, the heater here is built into the shower head and usually appears to have been installed by a drunken monkey. But fear not — it is possible to de-stinkify yourself without a shocking surprise.

Although the heaters look like something you’d find for sale late at night on one of those shopping channels, they are a common sight in many parts of the world. In Asia, I found similar setups, but there the heater is a sealed, waterproof unit mounted on the wall and I never really worried about being shocked.

Here, it’s a large electrical time bomb hanging above your head, often with visible bare wires (count yourself lucky if you find electrical tape or wire nuts).

The first step to using a shower like this is to give it a good visual inspection. Is it mounted high enough that you can shower without bumping your head? Are bare wires visible where they could possibly contact water? If it’s just too sketchy, ask the management for a bucket, fill it with hot water and clean off with a washcloth.

Looking closer, you’ll see the ‘temperature selector’ which has three settings: high, medium and off. Don’t touch it. It doesn’t really work anyway and most likely the last tourist left it set at its optimum setting. Or else he died trying.

In fact, it’s best just not to look at the heater from this point on. It really makes things easier. Trust me. Try not to think about it. Keep your head down, do your business and get the hell out of there.

You’ll probably notice a small bulb with holes in it hanging off the side of the shower head — this is a pressure blow-off valve. If for some reason the shower head becomes clogged, this will –theoretically– pop off and allow the water to pour downwards rather than spray up into the wiring. I’ve found that they have a tendency to pop off at random times and scare the hell out of you for no reason.

With no true temperature control, the only way to adjust the temp is to adjust the flow of water through the heater. Turning it on full blast will produce a fairly cold shower. Turning down the volume gives the water more time to heat up on the way through. Turn it down too low and the heater will turn off — it’s a bit of a dance.

Basically, you have the choice of a stiff, cold shower or a warm, drizzly one. Your call.

But wait! There’s one last detail. I often find that the stall has a metal shower knob (if it’s plastic, praise your favorite deity). And since no one seems to believe in grounding their wiring around here, there’s a good chance that the knob will be slightly electrified once the heater comes on. And believe me, there’s nothing like tweaking the water temperature during a shower to make you nnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnever want to do it again.

So here’s my technique: Bring two towels to the shower. While still dry, adjust the water pressure to get a decently warm temperature. Hop in the shower, do your thang and avoid thinking about things like wills, funerals and barbecues. And for God’s sake, don’t touch anything.

When finished, step out, dry yourself off with one towel, and then use the other dry towel to turn off the water. Or wear a thick pair of flip flops.

If any of that is too daunting, just skip the shower. Everyone expects backpackers to be a bit smelly anyway.

Weird Beards: Vintage Barbershop Posters from Guatemala, with Ricky Gervais and Tony Danza? 0

Weird Beards: Vintage Barbershop Posters from Guatemala, with Ricky Gervais and Tony Danza?

Sometimes you get a second chance. I recently wrote about an extremely painful shave I had at a quaint barbershop in Antigua called Barbaria Willy’s. While having my face scraped off, I’d noticed that a poster on the wall featured a drawing of someone who looked a lot like Ricky Gervais.

I failed to get the photo after, citing the fact that the barbershop had grown crowded and that I was woozy from blood loss. I returned the next morning but found them closed — it was Sunday and my bus was leaving just a few hours later. Opportunity missed.

So when my friend Joe emailed me from Costa Rica and said he wanted to join me for a few weeks, Antigua seemed like the perfect place to meet up. And I wasted no time stopping in to beg and plead to take a few shots in my garbled, pidgin Spanish.

Weird Beards: Vintage Barbershop Posters from Guatemala, Starring Ricky Gervais and Tony Danza?

Two brothers were working the chairs, seemingly identical twins in their 50′s and standing five feet tall (maybe, if you hung them from their feet). They were so friendly and charming that I decided to attempt to forget my last terrible experience (with a younger barber) and get a shave.

Alas, I also guilted Joe in to having one, despite his misgivings, and our experiences were drastically different. My guy was a true pro, lathering me up, scraping my whiskers away in a careful methodical fashion. He then lathered me a second time and made another pass, then buzzed and trimmed my goatee, trimmed my ear and nose hair, touched up my haircut and shaved my ears (don’t ask).

It was the best shave I’ve had outside of India, and that’s saying a lot — those guys really know their stuff. All for three dollars.

His brother –though he may have looked the same– was the polar opposite. He worked Joe over like a schoolboy carving his initials into a desk. Joe persevered, holding onto the chair with a white-knuckled grip and –to his credit– never whimpered, mewled, or screamed in pain.

Every few minutes, the barber would stop and sharpen his razor on the leather strop attached to the chair while Joe took deep breaths and, I imagine, prayed to the shrine of the Virgin Mary on the wall above him.

Weird Beards: Vintage Barbershop Posters from Guatemala, Starring Ricky Gervais and Tony Danza?

As we left, I noticed a half dozen beads of blood forming on his upper lip. Now, I’ve had dozens of shaves in many parts of the world and I have never once been nicked. Even the painfully inept guy who’d shaved me here last time hadn’t drawn blood.

(Yes, I know I suggested otherwise just a few moments ago but you really shouldn’t believe everything you read.)

As we navigated the narrow sidewalks and cobblestone streets, Joe gave me a blow-by-blow of the experience and I do have to say it sounded pretty damned painful. “He was a sadist, man” was a phrase that came up more than once.

“Sorry I guilted you into that, dude. That wasn’t cool,” I offered, feeling genuinely abashed.

“Are you kidding?” he said, wiping away a crimson mustache. “That was awesome!”

 

As for the posters, the barber just shrugged when I asked how old they were. One looks to be from the 50′s or 60′s while another features “the Boxer”, who looks a lot like Tony Danza. The one with Gervais’ doppelgänger also seems to feature Kevin Costner and –perhaps– Tom Cruise, so I don’t think we can dub it an antique.

Which is your favorite style? See any celebrities I missed? Please leave a comment.

 

When traveling the world, I find it can be useful to carry a phone card so I can keep in touch with friends and families. In many parts of the world, internet bandwidth is lacking and being able to call home on a real phone makes all the difference.

Let’s Play Backpacker Bingo! 0

Let's Play Backpacker Bingo! - A Game for Travelers

So, I’ve got this idea for a game. It’s a kind of BINGO for travelers, based on all the many cliches we see –and participate in– while on the road. It’s goofy, easy to play and takes up no room in your pack.

There are 20 Basic categories of tourists in the game to watch for as you travel. When you spot someone that fits the description, point them out to your opponent/s and you get a letter (or you can make your opponent lose a letter, if you’re falling behind and want to prolong the game). The first person to spell BINGO wins. Easy!

Just to make things interesting, there are 5 Wild Cards: travelers who are worth double, allowing you to add a letter and your opponent/s to lose one.

For example, say we’re walking along and you spot a Bloody Harry, a guy drinking before 11am. You point him out and now have the letter “B”. The Bloody Harry category is now closed. (Otherwise, you could walk by a bar filled with Aussies and the game would be over.)

Next you see a Commit Already!, a backpacker with a henna tatto — point her out and you’re at “BI”. Your opponent gets lucky next, though, and sights a Wild Card, aDouble Ansel — a tourist with two cameras. You lose a letter, dropping you to “B” and he gets his first letter, tying the game.

Obviously, this does require a bit of math, in that you have to be able to count to 5. Shouldn’t be a problem for most of us but most Lithuanians should probably stop reading now.

I recommend being discrete when announcing your spotting — shouting “Mr Thang!” as you point at a drunken, shirtless jock could lead to a more adventurous holiday than you’d planned on. A whispered “Mr Thang to your left” will save on dental bills.

And without further ado, here are the categories:

The Basics (+1 for you OR -1 for your opponent)
Hey Grandpa! — a man wearing shorts and black socks
Mr/Miz Thang — anyone showing too much skin for the culture/place
Bloody Harry — any guy drinking before 11am
Penny Saved — tourist arguing with a taxi/tuk tuk driver
Armpits and Beer — a guy wearing a beer logo “wife beater”/singlet

REI Rebel — anyone wearing a North Face jacket
Careful, Spielberg! — a guy videotaping while walking down the street
In Yo Face — someone taking a photo less than 2 ft from the subject’s face
That 80′s Show — a guy wearing a golf shirt with a popped collar
So Last Century — anyone taking photos with a disposable camera

Too Soon — anyone wearing a tshirt championing the town they’re currently in
Where’d I Put That? — a guy in a camera vest (bet he has a beard, too)
Commit Already! — anyone sporting a henna tattoo
Isn’t That Cute? — a couple with matching shirts/outfits
Hippy Pants — anyone wearing baggy, multi-colored or droopy pants (MC Hammer excluded)

Get Off My Lawn — an old expat complaining that the place has gone to Hell
Road Block — anyone holding up foot traffic to get that perfect photo
Stop Thief! — any person wearing their daypack backwards
Thai Tattoo — a backpacker sporting road rash from a scooter spill
The Artiste — anyone laying on the ground to get a photo

Wild cards (+1 for you AND -1 for your opponent)
Kitchen Sink — anyone with a backpack and a guitar, didjidaroo or hula hoop
Missed the Memo — anyone wearing a money belt on the outside
Dread Fest — 3 or more people with dreads in a group OR someone with a massive ‘mono-dread’
Revolution, Mon — anyone with clothing featuring either Bob Marley or Che Guevara
Double Ansel — a tourist wearing two cameras

Change the rules or add new categories as you like, so long as all players agree. If you’re playing with more than 2 people, it’s best to only close a category after two uses, rather than one. To make things easy, I’ve included a cheat sheet.

Please note that this is all in good fun. I read through the list and found 9 that would have applied to me in the last year.

What do y’all think? Any suggestions for new categories?

Photo of the Week: Crocodile Stalking a Bird on Lake Peten 0

Photo of the Week: Crocodile Stalking a Bird on Lake Peten

It was nearing sunset when the manager at Yaxah’s only hotel pointed at the lake. “Cocodrillo!” he said, excitedly. We hurried down to lakes edge and watch him float idly about ten feet offshore. I would guess that was at least six feet long.

As we watched, this bird landed right in front of it and began pecking at the ground, oblivious. It was interesting to watch the croc make it’s approach — he moved so slowly you could hardly see the motion. He got as close as you see here before the bird wandered off to the right, never realizing how close he came to disaster.

To view image at full size, click HERE.

Weirdest Place I’ve Ever Been? Inside My Own Head. 0

Post image for Weirdest Place I’ve Ever Been? Inside My Own Head.

This is a story I’ve wanted to tell for a long time. While not specifically travel-related, I think it reminds us that adventure can be found anywhere: overseas, at home and sometimes even in your own head.

During the early 90′s there was a rebirth of interest in spirituality, mind expansion and all things esoteric. Millions of us read books, watched videotapes or attended seminars devoted to all kinds of odd topics: crystals, trance states, chanting, meditation, dolphins, UFOs, channelling, smart drugs, shamanism, ear-candling, Wiccan bowling and more.

It was kind of a second, more-expensive New Age, but with less patchouli.

I was in my early twenties and open-minded so I dabbled in much of it. I meditated fairly regularly and spent hours running between the New Age and Self Help / Psychology sections of the bookstore. I built a mind machine, with blinking LEDs that did a fair job of relaxing you and then putting you to sleep. I tried but failed to figure out the I Ching and owned a tape of shamanic drumming that could bore you into a trance in twenty minutes.

I never really stuck with any one thing for long. There was too much of it to sample and if I didn’t see results right away, I’d get distracted and find myself back at the bookstore. One thing I did keep working at, however, was lucid dreaming: learning to wake up inside a dream and being able to control it.

It really wasn’t that hard to do — I’d had a few occur naturally already. I read a couple of books, kept a dream journal and soon found myself having several a week — it was fun. And I learned that while I was good at having them, controlling them was a different beast.

It seemed that once my brain started waking up, it insisted on waking all the way up. I’d realize I was dreaming and look around my environment, thinking excitedly “This is it!” Just as the squealing, topless cheerleaders would begin to parachute from the sky and the baby oil fountains fired up, the scene would bobble, spin and then fade as I woke up cursing.

I wasn’t getting in touch with my inner self — I was developing Tourette’s.

travel and lucid dreamingStill I kept at it, enjoying my occasional 30 seconds of God-mode, mostly because it’d become a habit and required so little effort. And too, because –let’s be honest– 1,000 flying topless cheerleaders is an impressive sight.

So I kept my journal by the bed, waking a few times a night to scribble a note that would prove incomprehensible the following morning.

Usually it was illegible scrawl but sometimes it was simply cryptic: “Cheese and the wombat. Twice!”

One thing I’d read about but not experienced was speaking to someone in the dream state. The reasoning went that you were conversing directly with your own subconscious mind, so it was a good time to ask for advice. Kind of cutting out the middle man, I suppose.

So when I found myself flying Superman-style one night, high above a desert plain and realized what was happening, I was thrilled to see an old man walking along below me. I swooped down and landed in front of him, eager to learn my own personal Deep Truth.

He was your standard Wise Man — ancient, wrinkled, dressed in a ragged robe and sporting long white hair and an unruly beard. He looked like God’s Grandpa. I remember thinking at the time, What a total cliche — is this really the best I can do?

Knowing I only had mere moments to interact, I opened my mouth and… and… nothing.

I couldn’t think of a single thing to ask him — I’d never really considered this part. What do you ask God’s Grandpa?

What I really wanted at the time was something like “Why are we here?”, “What happens when we die?”, or “How do you pick up women?” You know… the Big Questions.

But in my panicked state, I couldn’t think of a single worthy query. The color was draining out of the sky as the horizon crept closer and closer. Knowing that I only had seconds left I finally asked, simply, “What advice do you have for me?”

He looked me in the eye and paused for dramatic effect, his bushy eyebrows dancing in the wind. I ground my imaginary teeth. Finally, he said “You know, you really need to quit eating those frozen Mexican dinners”.

I was stunned. This being a dream, I’m pretty sure my eyes shot about a foot out of their sockets. “Are you shitting me?” I cried. “That’s it?!”

He shrugged apologetically and said “That’s all I got.” As he turned away everything tilted and flipped, the dream popping like a soap bubble as reality rushed in.

I woke up laughing.

Photo of the Week: Sunset on Lake Peten Itza, Guatemala 0

Travel Photo of the Week: Sunset on Lake Peten Itza, Guatemala

Some photos take themselves. I was moping around, feeling guilty for staying the night at a $30 eco-hotel and wandered out to the deck to watch the sun set over the lake to find this scene. I had to step about five feet to the right to line up the horse and the reflection and I had the shot. All I had to do was crop it.

To view image at full size, click HERE.

Rules of the Road: Guatemalan Edition 0

Humor: Oddball Travel Advice: Guatemalan Edition

I’m an idea man. No, really. I’ve been on the road for a couple of years and every now and then I come up with a good one. Here are a few thoughts and suggestions that might make the world just a tiny bit easier to deal with.

If you and I happen to cross paths on a remote jungle trail and you’re carrying a machete, please don’t run towards me with a big smile on your face. I know that you were just excited to point out that lovely bird in the tree and it’s very nice of you but now I have to change my pants.

Hey guys, Axe body spray is the patchouli of our time — just say no. That stuff doesn’t work anyways — I’ve guzzled gallons of it without getting laid once. I know the commercials suggest otherwise but they also claim I can maintain an erection while driving a race car and that’s never happened either.

If you’re going to charge me $20 or more to visit your park or archaeological site, I should at least get a free map. That’s twice what I’m paying for the hotel — having to kick down another $3 for a map is a bit much. Hell, even the black market kidney I just bought came with an owner’s manual and a warranty card.

Parks are a free fart zone. When out in nature, surrounded by trees and all of that fresh oxygen, a man has every right to proudly rip one, so quit looking at me like that. Instead, maybe you should teach your kid not to stand so close to strangers.

Antigua is a lovely place but I think your strict development regulations are strangling innovation. Yes, it’s nice that the town looks just like it did a hundred years ago but last time I was there tourism was way down. What you need is a Hooters-themed water park. Think about it.

I just saw a sign in Tikal that said “Templo 4″ and, directly underneath, “Temple 4″. I love bilingual signs, really I do, but if the only difference is a single letter, save the paint. I can probably sound that one out.

Photos: Giant Women and Men in Drag? Mystery Festival in Guatemala 0

Travel Photos: What's Going On? Mystery Festival in Guatemala

One of the disadvantages of not speaking the local language is that you never quite know what’s going on. On second thought, I take that back. I can’t blame the language for everything — there have been plenty of times where I understood every word but still didn’t have a clue as to what was happening.

But I think we can place my confusion in this instance solely on the shoulders of my Tarzan-esque mastery of the Spanish language. On my first morning in Flores, I awoke to a massive mortar-style firework exploding so near and so loudly that it set off a neighbor’s car alarm. At 4:30 in the morning. Ten minutes later –and just as I was nodding off– it happened again. BOOM! *chirp chirp*

For the rest of the story and full-size photos, CLICK HERE.

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