“Johnston Canyon is one of the most popular hikes in Banff National Park.” Jeff said with a thick Montreal accent. Jeff was my guide with Discover Banff Tours and one of the best guides I have ever had.
One of the things I love about hiking in Banff National Park is that it doesn’t matter what time of year you go. In spring the grass is starting to turn green, the wild flowers are starting to bloom and the waterfalls are full due to the mountain run-offs. In summer everything is fresh, the trails are fully open and there is more wildlife around. In the autumn the leaves on the trees start to change colour and in the winter the ground is covered (usually) with pristine white snow, the waterfalls are covered with ice and there is a layer of peace that surpasses any other time of year.
When our blue Discover Banff Tours bus pulled into the parking lot at Johnston Canyon I felt a twinge of excitement. I had strapped my new Drift HD170 action camera to my head on the bus, and now it was time to go outside and strap on my ice cleats. I grabbed my LowPro backpack, took some cleats from my guide, Jeff, and headed outside and to the back of the bus.
As I strapped my cleats to my boots I looked around the parking lot. There were 3 other Discover Banff Tours buses in the parking lot. All of which had pulled in just minutes before us. I groaned inwardly at the thought of a crowded hiking trail, but quickly pushed my disappointment aside as Jeff called our group over. After inviting the group to “enjoy a Canadian experience” (using a port-a-potty before heading out), Jeff led the group onto the trail.
My ice cleats clung to the crunchy snow beneath my feet as I walked (and panted) along the path. In the beginning the trail was flanked by tall evergreen trees, lightly dusted with snow. The trail had been a little hilly, but nothing too bad and the ice cleats on my feet kept me from falling (shocking, I know!). I slowed down to take photos, knowing I’d be writing about my experience and within minutes my group had disappeared from sight. When I managed to catch up with them it was only because Jeff had stopped the group to talk about Johnston Canyon. As I was a wee bit late arriving, I missed most of what he was saying. This, as it so happens, became a reoccurring thing. I’d be too slow, Jeff would stop the group to talk about the canyon, I would arrive (missing most of what he said) and catch my breath and then we’d move on as a group for another 10 minutes or so before I would lag behind due to slowness, photo ops or both.
Once the trail left the forested area and I stared at the open space of the canyon (well, more open than being surrounded by trees), I stopped worrying about slowing the group down and started to appreciate my surroundings. To Jeff’s (and the other guides) credit, our group was spaced out enough from the other groups so as to give us a more serene experience.
The trail soon left the forest floor behind as we were guided onto a snow-covered steel catwalk that clung to the side of the canyon. On the right was a railing, (which came in handy when there were large dips in the snow on the catwalk) and on the left was jagged (and sometimes smooth) rock. As we walked, I tried to remind myself that I was wearing a video camera and that I couldn’t quickly gawk as I walked. I needed to be slow and methodical.
Although I was attempting to be slow and methodical, I was still struck by the beauty and stillness of Johnston Canyon. In many places the canyon walls had patches of ice and snow clinging to the rock. Some times the trail would wind through the canyon along the ground. At other times we’d be walking through the canyon at an elevated height.
In the middle of the canyon the ground was pristinely white, with small patches of unfrozen water appearing from time to time. The evergreen trees were tall and thin and the sedimentary rock of the canyon showed off it’s multi-coloured facets and fossils of creatures from long ago.
I saw a small trout swimming in a patch of unfrozen water, hiked up steep hills and braced myself on the canyon wall as I skirted the holes in the snow. I also panted, a lot (note to self, do not wear external mic when hiking, only when talking).
As our group passed the Lower Falls and approached the Twin Falls I was cursing myself for forgetting my water. I was out of breath, my throat was dry and pained and I could hardly talk. I wanted to keep pushing myself, but when Jeff announced (somewhat excitedly) that we were half way to the Upper Falls and now the fun and challenging part of the hike was going to begin, I knew I was done. I was in a group who thrived on hiking to the falls as fast as they could and I secretly wished I was with the group I had passed that were more into snapping photos and taking their time.
While our group was stopped at Twin Falls I made the decision to stop there and not continue to the Upper Falls. I knew I would slow the group down even more, and to be honest, I knew I would need lots of water to keep myself hydrated. I approached Jeff and hoarsely explained that I would wait at either Twin Falls or the Lower Falls for the group, as I wanted to do some filming and take some photos. He agreed and I separated from the group, promising myself that I would do the hike again in the summer and visit the Upper Falls then.
As it turns out, this was the best decision. As my group disappeared around a corner I peeled off my winter jacket (I was sweating) and started to do some filming. For the next hour I was alone.
I crunched through the snow, listening to the trickling sounds of the river below me as I hiked back down from the Twin Falls to the Lower Falls. The trail was steep and a little slippery and I was supremely grateful for the ice cleats on my feet as there is no way I would have made it down without falling and hurting myself.
I walked over the small bridge to the lower falls and stopped to photograph the small pool of water to my left. Although I could hear the waterfall above the pool, I couldn’t see it as it was hidden behind a wall of ice. This, however, was not all of the Lower Falls.
With my DSLR in my hand and my actioncam on my head, I ducked and walked though the small dark cave to a small viewing platform. The sound of rushing water was hypnotic. I stood there for 10 minutes listening to the water rushing behind the wall of ice, starring at the indigo pool of water below me.
When my group arrived at the Lower Falls I was ready for the company. There was a feeling of accomplishment in the air, and I reminded myself that I would visit the Upper Falls in the summer.
We walked back down the trail and I continued to allow the canyon to capture my heart. I took deep breaths and relished in the cool fresh mountain air. As the parking came into sight, everyone gave high fives (I felt a little sheepish about doing that, after all, I stopped half way) and I promised myself to return again in the summer.
Banff National Park have a power that is unsurpassed. There are so many things to see, to do and to experience. Hiking through Johnston Canyon is something everyone should do at least once in their lifetime, and it’s something I plan to do more of over the next few months.
However this rather sensible decision was soon lost in the abyss, as we were quickly swept away by Malta’s dangerously alluring nightlife. From pubs, to bars, to nightclubs, techno, to hip-hop, to Rnb, there was something for everyone and none of us could resist.
This is a MUST for club lovers. Although it is a taxi ride away from Paceville, the experience is well worth the travel.
If you’re feeling a tad more adventurous than there is also ten-pin bowling alley which is great fun and inexpensive.
BootsnAll Travel and 
